Last week during Semana Santa (Holy Week), Chuck, Kate, Katie, Kelly, Lance, and Selina lived in the rug-weaving pueblo called Teotitlán del Valle. We split up and lived with four different families involved in the Vida Nueva cooperative. This is an all women's co-op who weave beautiful rugs of all shapes and styles with naturally dyed wool (which they dye themselves). However, these women are not just weavers, but protectors of their land and community. They do projects within the community to connect the pueblo together and raise awareness on keeping their land healthy. Our group was able to help out with a project of theirs.
Hi this is Kate! Something that I found very shocking was the state of nutrition in the pueblo. There was a vast contrast between cooking healthy soups and fresh tortillas daily and also guzzling liters of soda and not wanting to walk anywhere (at least this is my experience). My assumption is that the latter are signs of status and luxury, so my host family felt compelled to offer those luxuries to me because I am a guest from a more wealthy background. I also noticed that many times soda was cheaper than water, which just goes to show how corporations target populations such as these to make money. I did not see a single person drinking just straight water; everything was some sort of sweetened beverage. The food we ate was very nutritious, with no meat and lots of vegetables and fresh cheeses. I was surprised at the amount of sugar in EVERYTHING. Our coffee was served to us in the morning pre sweetened, with so much sugar it made your mouth pucker. The two four year olds living in my house came and sat with us and even had a huge bowl of coffee every morning! Overall, a very different experience than back in the U.S, at least in Vermont!
One of my favorite experiences was cooking with Juan and Patrona. Patrona was very adamant about teaching us how to make this vegetable soup. She was so excited for us to learn about a daily aspect of her life. I feel that food and cooking really is a great aspect of someone’s culture and a form of expression. The creation of the soup turned into a group activity that took most of the afternoon. We took our time cutting the vegetables and pureeing the ingredients. Juan and Patrona were more than happy to include Chuck and me in most of the work even in circumstances where we didn’t know what we were doing (which was most of the time). It is interesting to compare the way we cook in the United States to this one instance that I experienced in a village. Back home, I feel that the day to day cooking can be very individualized and we are all about getting it done fast. This took a whole afternoon. I tried to take in all the ingredients by smelling them and noting everything that went into the soup. The soup consisted of tomatoes, broccoli, garlic, carrots, zucchini, and pasta.
Hi it's Chuck! During my stay in Teotitlán I found it very interesting to watch the social interactions between my host family and the town. I was particularly interested in the difference between their way of shaking hands and what I have seen in Oaxaca and the U.S. Their handshake (or at least those involving a woman) involves using two hands and bowing one’s head slightly. I thought this was interesting just because it made the interaction seem more genuine and sincere. I also saw this sincerity when I was walking with my host family and they greeted a man and his son who were riding their bikes. Instead of just saying hello back, the man and son dismounted from their bikes to shake hands with my host parents. I thought this was worth noting because perhaps it says something about their sense of community as well as pace of life. I think that in the U.S. this would be way more unusual. I feel that the pace of life in Mexico is much slower and more community orientated, and in many U.S. and European countries people are much more concerned with getting all their errands done and accomplishing tangible goals rather than fostering a strong sense of community.
Overall my week in Teotitlán was really quite fun and relaxing. I think a lot of us had a lot of trouble adjusting to village life-bucket showers, lack of our idea of stimulation, etc- but I really do think the village stay was mind opening for me, as cliché as that sounds. I think that it is really easy to forget that just because people’s lives seem so strikingly different at first glance, that isn’t always the case and I think living with my host family for a few days reminded me that wherever you go, people are people, with similar games, humor, and emotions as I do.
Selina here, focusing on religion. The pueblo of Teotitlán is very Catholic-- interesting due to the fact that a large portion of the population is indigenous and Zapotec. During Semana Santa, people were on vacation and a lot of effort was put into preparing the town for the resurrection of Jesus Christ on Sunday (Easter). Monday started off with a procession in which nearly the entire pueblo partook. It consisted of carrying around religious figures, such as the Virgin Mary, and the parade would occasionally stop so that people could worship the Virgin and bring food and flowers. During these stops, food and drink were offered to everyone.
On Thursday night, I went with my host mother, her sister, and their mother to church at midnight. There was an altar set up with fluorescent christmas lights and lots of candles, and incense was being burned constantly. People came in and out of the church all night with copious amounts of flowers, to come kneel in front of the altar and pray, and rosaries were being said out loud. Around 1am, 12 men dressed as the apostles came in and sat down in front of the altar, and played music and sang songs. Food and drinks were being offered to those coming to worship. My host grandmother and myself went home around 1:30, but my host mother and her sister stayed until six in the morning.
Later in the afternoon, we went back to the church to witness Jesus being taken down from the cross. This was done with extreme care, and took about half an hour. He was then put in a casket and the casket was once again carried through the town, to the cemetery and back to the church, as another procession. This procession went around the town twice, and by the time they got back to the church it was dark out.
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